Monday, February 28, 2011

Imperial Guard Sentinel

The last couple days I've worked on a Sentinel - and here it is! I've attached things like weapons, sensor pod, etc, with magnets, so that I can make use of all the weapons in the box - swapping equipment depending on the game! So, I'm still painting the other weapons, and the searchlight, but they'll all be able to attach to it using magnets, so I can set up any loadout! Here it is with a lascannon and the sensors on the roof.

I haven't done a vehicle before, so I was a bit uncertain how it would turn out. I wanted to keep the green and gold theme of my army. To paint it, I undercoated in Dark Angel Green, I heavily drybrushed in catachan green, then I medium drybrushed in desert yellow, then I drybrushed areas in mithril, then washed it all in badab black, then touched up some areas in mithril and in shining gold.

Sunday, February 27, 2011

Imperial Guard Sergeant

Today's figure is an imperial guard sergeant! I tried something different, and using a decoration from the Warhammer 40k Basing Kit, I put one of his feet up on some pipes littering the ground.


Friday, February 25, 2011

Imperial Guard: Assembling a Cadian flamethrower

Well, today I made a flamethrower soldier. The instructions that come with the cadian box set leave a lot to be desired - there is a simple illustration on the side of the box, which has a picture of the pieces, and lines to the torso - in other words, get these pieces, and glue them. That's all. However, the flamethrower figure is designed to be attached together in a specific way - some parts slot into other parts, so I thought I'd show an assembly step-by-step, then the painted figure.

To start with, grab the pieces you need - the backpack tanks, the flamethrower, a head, a torso, a pair of legs, and one of the extended arms with a grip clutched in the fist.



Glue the legs and torso onto a base.


Next, glue the tanks on his back. Take note of the small pipe-tap bit jutting out on one side. There is a hole in it.


Next, glue on the flamethrower arm - there is a pipe sticking out the rear of this model piece - you want to glue it to the tap hole on the backpack, and align the shoulder with the torso, to glue it in the correct position.


Next you glue the other arm on. The grip clutched in his fist slots into a hole on the flamethrower, just like the pipe and the tap did. You want to glue the grip into that hole, and align the shoulder with the torso, for this arm to be correct.


Then you can glue a head on, and the model is assembled!


I painted this one up in my paint scheme for this army - green and gold, and I used Scab Red (which I use on all my Haradrim in Lord of the Rings) to paint parts of the flamethrower, and the tanks on his back! I've also started using desert yellow (an olivish yellow) to outline the jacket beneath the armour, and the pockets on the pants, of the soldiers, so those details are more visible now.




just some photos!

I love to take photos. Lots and lots of photos. I guess it keeps me interested in what I'm doing. Anyway, my brother was telling me about a good article he read, and how one of the White Dwarf guys keeps unpainted miniatures out of sight, and puts painted ones in front of him so he can be inspired by his progress and seeing his accomplishments. I've set up half my table with scenery, so I can pose figures as I finish them. It's a lot of fun setting up scenes each time I add a figure. Anyway, here's two photos! Then I'll get started on my next figure! (Haven't based the voxcaster guy yet. I might get around to that today, or I might just bulk-base all the figures once they're painted up)



Thursday, February 24, 2011

basing imperial guards

Okay, so I thought I'd try out basing a figure, and work out a terrain scheme that goes with the three terrain sets I currently play on, being rocky wasteland, snowy plains, and grassy forests. I made a brown/grey colour from scorched brown drybrushed with codex grey, around the ring of the base. Then onto the codex grey flat of the base, I used white glue to attach small slate gravel from the 'warhammer 40k basing kit'. Then I glued some patches of grass. Then I dabbed devlin mud wash onto the gravel and around the edges of the grass. Then I highlighted some of the gravel pieces with codex grey. The idea was not to make a terrain base for a specific style of terrain, but to find something that looks okay for playing with, for all three. I think it would go good in urban ruin settings too. Anyway, I'm happy enough with how it turned out.

On grass terrain, I think it looks okay, as the grey ties in with most of my scenery objects (hills, ruins, etc) that are a grey rocky colour, and the patches of grass on the base help to tie it in with the green of the citedal battlemat. The hint of brown helps the grey to sit easily with the green grass, where a solid grey might stand out more against it.
The grey goes okay with snowy terrain. The grass is only small patches, so I don't think it overpowers the figure base, and the grey ties in with the grey stones and gravel that is embedded in the surface of my snow board.
The grey goes nicely with rocky hills (and should go nicely with my brother's rocky wasteland Realm of Battle board)

daylight photography

I was carrying these two figures outside, and discovered just how dark it is inside my place compared to natural light, even though I've got multiple lightbulbs in the roof. So I took a photo in the sunlight. I think it's convinced me that if I want to really 'see' my figures, I might just buy one of those miniatures photography kits they have on http://www.thinkgeek.com/ for taking 'finished' shots of figures. Getting bright, natural light really makes a difference. Or perhaps I'll just go outside on sunny days to take 'finished' shots of figures :) Inside, the green uniform always seems so dark, but in the sunlight, you can see that it's green. I also added some more highlighting to the face of the Master of Ordnance, because I felt his face was still a bit flat painted.

Imperial Guard: custom Master of Ordnance

I read in some forums where people customised their Command Squad figures, from the Cadian battleforce box set, and I ended up doing it too! Instead of buying the Master of Ordnance, I made my own one, using some of the command squad pieces. First, I got a pair of legs, then the voxcaster backpack, then the voxcaster raised right arm. Then I attached the baton-cradling left arm which is an option for the commanding officer, and also grabbed one of the scarred, helmetless heads, to set the figure apart from the soldiers of my army. I glued a holstered pistol to his right hip, and lastly, to set him apart, I painted his uniform in black and gold, instead of the grunt colors of green and gold. Anyway, here's how he turned out! I quite like the baton, makes him look very official. (He's the guy on the left.)

Step by Step Imperial Guard: Voxcaster

Hi guys! I've started yet another miniatures gaming blog. This time, it's Warhammer 40k. I'm collecting Imperial Guards: Cadians, and also some tyranid monsters for them to fight against. My brother is collecting the Space Wolves. Once we've got some guys glued together there's sure to be some more battle reports. Anyway, this blog is to chronicle my painting and collecting of 40k stuff. I'm beginning with the Cadian Imperial Guard miniatures, but I'm calling my forces the Austrans (from the planet Austral) with the main colours of green and gold. (I'm an Australian, so I'm kind of stealing my national colours here). Important figures, such as Company Commanders, Master of Ordinance, and so forth, will have a black and gold uniform.

So, to begin with, I've painted my first figure, and here's some of the steps. It's a voxcaster (communications officer) for a squad of infantry.

To begin with, I coated it in Chaos Black. Then I painted the metal armour in Shining Gold, the skin in Tallarn Flesh, and the clothing in Catachan Green. I left the boots black.

Next I painted the backpack and gun in Mithril (the brightest metal). I always use that metal, because I apply citedal washes to my figures, and they can really darken colours, so it won't be so bright at the end.
I then painted the skull/wings insignia in bleached bone
I then liberally washed the whole figure in Badab Black citedal wash. Occassionally I dabbed at pools of black with a dry brush to sponge up the excess wash, trying to keep the figure clean looking, with the wash settling into the detail areas.
I then waited until the wash had dried. You MUST wait for it to completely dry, otherwise when you add paint to the model, it will bleed off in different directions and ruin the model, because of the water.

When it had dried, I did highlighting: I applied the same colours as I used to the raised surfaces, being sure not to paint over the top of areas that the wash brought detail to. So, for the face, I carefully applied tallarn flesh to the bridge of the nose, and to the cheeks on either side. I painted gold back onto the armour - but on the top and edges, keeping the other parts of it shaded by the wash. Similarly, I brushed some Mithril back onto the metal, on edges or raised surfaces, to highlight them. I also got the green and painted the raised surfaces of the clothing - the raised cloth parts of folds for example, to highlight them, while keeping the recesses of the folds dark from the wash. Lastly, I painted the base codex grey, which is fine for the moment. I will do a proper base at some other time, as basing my figures is a whole other project. Oh, and I also painted the helmet light, and the end of the laser gun in blazing orange. I was a little lazy when doing the orange - the model was not completely dry yet, and as such, instead of a round dot of orange on the helmet, the paint bled a bit and became an oblong smear. However, luckily, it's only noticeable if you look up real close or at zoomed in photos.

I also painted the eyes. I'm always very nervous about eyes, and they don't turn out how I want very often. I paint a horizontal dab of paint in white, or some other pale colour (bone, tan, etc) then a small dot or vertical blob of black in the middle. In this case, one eye was great, the other eye's pupil was low and at a slightly different angle. However, it's not all that noticeable so it's good enough for me :)

Lastly, to finish it off, I repainted the skull/wing bits in mithril, because I didn't like how the bone paint looked, and I added more highlights of mithril to raised surfaces on the weapon and backpack.

Here it is finished!